Opening Night
How-to · 1:29Thirty days to opening night. Michael wires a Prop Controller, sets it up from his phone and laptop, presses Run, and the graveyard runs the show.
In developmentFeatures, hardware and screens may change before release.
The Dead Run on Time™
Controllers that run your scares from a phone, tablet, PC or Mac. The Prop Controller plays a timed sequence, using up to eight relays to activate your props. The Prop Manager controls multiple Prop Controllers wirelessly, activating each one with the push of a button on a central Dashboard. Both host their own web pages, so there is no app to install and no account to make.
Step 1 activates fog and strobe together, holds until both are off, then pauses 500 ms. Step 2 hits the air blast, then the strobe and coffin lid together 300 ms later.
Four short animated trailers: a how-to with the builder, and three narrated by the graveyard skeleton, including a tour of the DIY props. Press play, and use the Voice button to watch with music and effects only.
Thirty days to opening night. Michael wires a Prop Controller, sets it up from his phone and laptop, presses Run, and the graveyard runs the show.
A dark graveyard comes alive as the Prop Controller and Prop Manager activate its props.
Lightning brings a skeleton to life. It wires a Prop Controller and builds the show that animates the graveyard.
The skeleton builds a gravedigger in its workshop, gives it its own Prop Controller, then the Prop Manager brings eight of the DIY props to life across the graveyard.
The props, screens and settings shown follow the Prop Controller and Prop Manager prototypes, which are still in development.
Build a show once and play it back the same way every time. Each relay gets its own duration and pause, down to the millisecond, and you edit it as a list of steps or drag clips on a timeline.
A browser-friendly dashboard with one trigger button per Prop Controller. Each button tap sends a wireless signal to the Prop Controller at the prop, which activates the prop scene.
One relay, on for its duration, then a pause before the next row starts. A pause of 0 activates the next row at the same moment.
A group of rows. It finishes only when every relay it turned on is off again, then waits its own pause.
Steps in order, never overlapping. A new trigger is ignored while one is running, so it never stacks.
A row with 0 ms duration activates nothing. Use it to add a pause inside a step.
Each button below is a prop. Tap one and it activates for half a second out at the prop. Names and colors are examples.
Each Prop Controller only answers the buttons paired to it, so props never activate by mistake.
Join the controller's WiFi, open its address in any browser, and these pages are there. Nothing to install. Click any screen to see it full size. Prop names shown are examples.
A graphite case with orange trim for each unit. Every connection on the Prop Controller is a screw terminal on an open ledge around the edge. Click any view to see it full size. These are design mockups; final cases may differ.
Everything connects with screw terminals, so there are no special plugs. Props wire in along the front, power on the left, and the speaker and trigger on the back.
Each of the eight outputs is a plain switch. The controller never sends power out of it. Wire the switch in line with your prop's own power, and the sequence turns the prop on and off.
If a prop runs on wall power, unplug it before you wire it in, and fuse it.
Plug in a DC adapter, or wire a supply straight into the power terminal. Anything from 5 to 24 volts works.
Use the jack or the terminal, not both at once.
Connect a speaker for the scare sounds, and add a button or mat so guests start the show themselves.
A small box that lets the Prop Controller read the air pressure feeding your cylinders. The pressure shows on the controller's screen, the Dashboard and the Setup page, with low and high alarms, and the controller can refuse to start a show when there isn't enough air to run it properly.
A palm-sized box that sits near your air supply. One cable runs to the Prop Controller and one to the pressure sensor, both on screw terminals, like everything else in the system.
Back: two keyhole slots for hanging it on a screw near the regulator. These are design mockups; the final case may differ.
Buy the right sensor: the listing must say "0.5–4.5V output, 5V DC supply." Some look identical but put out 4–20 mA or 0–10V, and those won't work with the add-on.
| Add-on terminal | Pin | Wire to |
|---|---|---|
| Sensor | +5V | Sensor red wire |
| Sensor | GND | Sensor black wire |
| Sensor | SIG | Sensor signal wire, usually yellow, green or blue |
| Controller | all 6 | The same-named pins on the controller's AIR terminal. Don't swap SCL and SDA |
Sensor wire colors vary by brand, so check the label or the datasheet before you power it up.
Safety: the controller only watches the pressure. Keep your compressor's pressure switch and relief valve in place.
With the low-pressure option on, the trigger button, the wireless remote and the Run buttons are ignored while the pressure is below the low alarm, and the screen shows "Low air!" Testing a single step or relay still works, and an unplugged sensor never blocks the show.
| You see | What it means | Check |
|---|---|---|
| Power light off | The add-on isn't getting 5V | +5V and GND on the controller cable, terminal screws tight |
| no ADS1115 | The controller can't talk to the add-on | All six controller wires in the right terminals, SCL and SDA not swapped |
| no sensor | The add-on is found, but no sensor signal | Sensor red on +5V, signal on SIG, terminal screws tight |
| sensor fault | The signal is too high | Signal shorted to 5V, pressure above the sensor's range, or the wrong type of sensor |
| Jumpy reading | Electrical noise | Power air valves and motors from their own supply, use shielded sensor cable |
| A few psi with no air | Zero is off | Let all the air out and press Zero sensor |
192.168.4.1./setup and approve each Prop Controller as it appears in the device table./buttons.No. Both controllers host their own WiFi network by default, so they work in a field, a garage or a haunt with no internet. You can also have either one join your existing WiFi from its Network page.
It waits a short time, then falls back to hosting its own network, so you are never locked out. Reconnect to that network and fix the settings on the Network page.
Hold the trigger button while powering on and keep holding for the full countdown on the screen. That restores the factory network settings. Let go early and it boots normally.
Check that the row's duration isn't 0 and that the relay number is within the active relay count set on the Sequence page.
Make sure it's powered and in range, and that it's authorized on the Setup page and paired to that prop on the Buttons page.
Animated props you can make in a weekend with a motor, some hardware store parts and a 12V supply. Each one can be fired from the Prop Controller or Prop Manager.
A shovel that digs a fresh grave on its own, driven by a slow crank hidden in a tombstone.
Beginner~$80–1201 weekend12V Project 02 · Motion propA skeleton fights its way out of a fresh grave, rocked up through the dirt by a wiper motor hidden in the ground.
Intermediate~$120–1801–2 weekends12V Project 03 · Motion propA zombie lunges out of a dirt mound on the lawn. No box and no digging: the clothes and the mound hide the motor.
Intermediate~$110–1701–2 weekends12V Project 04 · Motion propA zombie drags itself across the ground toward the guests, one clawing arm after the other, driven by a motor in its chest.
Intermediate~$110–1601–2 weekends12V Project 05 · Motion propA ghoul rises from behind a tombstone, stares at the guests over the top, then drops out of sight. One trigger, one peek.
Beginner~$70–1201 weekend12V Project 06 · Motion propA body bag hanging from a dead tree kicks and twists to get out. An off-center weight on a wiper motor does all the work.
Beginner~$70–1101 weekend12V Project 07 · Motion propA corpse in an open coffin sits bolt upright and reaches out as guests lean in, then slowly lies back down.
Intermediate~$120–2001–2 weekends12V Project 08 · Air propA hand bursts up out of the dirt at the edge of the path and claws at the air. Driven by a small air cylinder and a 12V valve.
Intermediate~$90–1501 weekend12V + air Project 09 · Air propA panel in the wall drops out of sight with a slam to reveal a ghoul in the window. An air cylinder holds it up, and a guarded strike board makes the bang.
Intermediate~$120–1801–2 weekends12V + air Project 10 · Air propOne trigger and the whole room comes apart: flickering light, rattling pots, cabinet doors banging open and a chair sliding out on its own.
Advanced~$250–4002–3 weekends12V + air Project 11 · Motion propA chained, padlocked door that something on the other side hammers on, until the door jumps in its frame and red light spills out underneath.
Beginner~$80–1301 weekend12V Project 12 · Air propSpecimen 07 lunges at the bars of its cell, arms reaching between the poles, while the alarm sounds and the beacon spins.
Intermediate~$200–3002 weekends12V + air Project 13 · Video propA zombie pounds on the window of its cell, and the whole cell shakes with every hit. A monitor, a media player and a hidden thumper, all in sync.
Intermediate~$250–4001–2 weekends12V Project 14 · Air propA face and clawed hands push out of an old painting toward guests, stretching the canvas like skin, as the picture light dies.
Intermediate~$120–2001 weekend12V + air Project 15 · Air propA strapped-in figure convulses under a crackling skull cap while the strobe fires, ending in one long rigid jolt.
Intermediate~$150–2501–2 weekends12V + air Project 16 · Air propA stencilled crate bangs its lid and rocks on its pallet while red light and eyes glow through the gap.
Beginner~$150–2501 weekend12V + air Project 17 · Motion propA six foot witch stirs a glowing cauldron all night, then flares the potion, burns her eyes red and stirs like mad when guests come close.
Beginner~$150–2501–2 weekends12V Project 18 · Air propA still figure in an armchair slowly stands up toward guests, then its neck stretches and its head rises high above them.
Intermediate~$200–3002 weekends12V + airMore DIY props will land here as they're designed.
The two circuits every project uses, wiper motor park switches, triggers, and how to read the suggested relay programs.
Read the guide → Guide · Before you put props outsideRain hats for motors, the right box for your Prop Controller and Prop Manager, wire sizes for long runs, and a show-night checklist.
Read the guide →A shovel works a fresh dirt mound all night with nobody holding it. A slow gearmotor turns a crank, and the handle slides and rocks through a pivot on a post, so the blade scoops, lifts and flicks like someone invisible is digging.
It's a slider-crank. The crank pin is bolted a third of the way up the shovel shaft, and the handle passes loosely through a sleeve on the post. Each turn of the crank pushes the blade down into the mound, drags it back, lifts it and swings it forward again. The handle rocking and sliding through the sleeve is what makes it look human.
Above about 20 RPM it starts to look mechanical, so pick a motor in the 10–20 RPM range.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Motor | 12V DC gearmotor, 10–20 RPM | A car wiper motor on its low setting also works and is very strong |
| Shovel | Real shovel with a cut-down handle | A foam prop shovel is lighter and easier on the motor |
| Crank arm | 1/4" steel or aluminum flat bar, 3–5" long | Shoulder bolt or bolt + nylock nut as the crank pin |
| Pivot sleeve | 1" PVC tee or pipe clamp on a bolt | Loose enough for the handle to slide and rock |
| Post | 2x2 lumber or 1" PVC, about handle height | Paint flat black so it vanishes at night |
| Base | 3/4" plywood, about 2' x 3' | Everything screws to this |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 5A or more | Size up if you use a wiper motor |
| Trigger (optional) | Prop Controller or Prop Manager relay, or a PIR sensor | Starts the digging when guests walk up |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
A small 12V gearmotor draws well under the relay's 5A rating, so it can run straight off R1: 12V into COM, NO out to the motor's + lead, and the motor's − lead back to the supply's ground. If your motor's stall current is over 5A, use an auto relay like the other props.
Put a diode such as a 1N5400 across the motor leads, with the stripe on the + side. It soaks up the voltage spike when the relay opens and keeps the contacts from arcing.
A gearmotor stops wherever it is when R1 turns off, which is fine here. The shovel just pauses mid-scoop until the next trigger.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Use a longer crank arm. Each extra inch adds a lot of swing at the blade.
Move the pivot sleeve closer to the motor for a more dramatic rock of the handle.
12–15 RPM reads like a person digging. Faster looks like a machine.
Grease the sleeve and add washers at the crank pin so nothing binds or squeaks.
Stuff a pair of work gloves and zip-tie them to the handle for the invisible gravedigger.
Upload digging and grunting as the ambient loop on the controller's Sound page, and hide the speaker in the tombstone.
Aim a dim, flickering lantern at the mound and leave the post in shadow.
Put it on a relay so it only starts digging when guests get close.
Safety: the crank is a pinch point and a gearmotor won't stop if someone grabs it. Keep the mechanism covered or out of reach, and keep the prop behind a barrier on a busy walkway. Weatherproofing guide →
A skeleton claws its way out of a fresh grave. The torso is hinged at the hips under a fake ground, and a slow wiper motor rocks it up through a slot in the dirt and drags it back down, again and again, while its arm reaches for the guests.
The skeleton torso is bolted to a hinge at its hips, a few inches below the fake ground. A pushrod connects the back of the torso to a crank on a wiper motor further back in the box. As the crank turns, the rod tips the torso up through a slot in the dirt until it's nearly sitting up, then pulls it back down.
The arm is on a loose shoulder bolt with a cord tied from the elbow to the box, so it swings forward and reaches as the body rises. A short spring under the skull adds a head bobble for free.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Motor | 12V car wiper motor | Very high torque. Low speed is about 40 RPM, so add a PWM speed controller to slow it down |
| Speed control | 12V PWM DC motor speed controller, 10A+ | Lets you dial in a slow, struggling pace |
| Skeleton | Plastic skeleton torso, skull and arms | Cut a full skeleton at the hips and keep the legs for another prop |
| Hip hinge | 3" door hinge on a 2x4 cross member | Screw a plywood plate inside the pelvis to mount it |
| Pushrod | 1x2 lumber or 1/2" EMT conduit, about 18" | Eye bolts or rod ends at each end so it can pivot |
| Crank arm | 1/4" steel flat bar, 3–4" long | Bolts to the wiper motor's output shaft |
| Box | 2x4 frame about 2' x 3', plywood top with an 8" x 18" slot | About 18" deep so the motor and crank fit underneath |
| Ground cover | Burlap, mulch, peat or foam "dirt", a few rocks | Glue loose cover down near the slot so it doesn't fall into the box |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more | Wiper motors draw a lot of current when starting |
| Trigger (optional) | Prop Controller or Prop Manager relay, or a PIR sensor | Starts the struggle when guests walk up |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
A wiper motor can pull 10–20A for a moment as it starts, more than the controller's 5A relays should switch. R1 only switches the coil of a 40A automotive relay, and that relay carries the motor current.
The park switch is the key. When R1 turns off, the auto relay drops back to 87a and feeds the motor through its park output, so it keeps turning until it reaches the park position. Set the crank so that park is the skeleton lying down.
If you use a PWM speed controller, put it between the 12V supply and the motor circuit, feeding both relay pin 87 and the motor's park FEED.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Use a longer crank arm, or attach the pushrod lower on the torso, closer to the hinge.
Shorten the pushrod a little. Lengthen it if the skeleton never fully goes back down.
About 25 RPM looks like fighting the dirt. Above 40 looks like a machine.
Keep the torso light and add a bungee from its back to the box to help it rise.
Dry-brush the bones brown and gray and rub dirt into the joints so it looks freshly unearthed.
Drape torn, dirty cloth over the shoulders. It flaps as the body moves and hides the hinge.
Use a low green or blue uplight from the dirt. Light the skull from below, not the box.
Hide the controller's speaker under the dirt and upload creaking, scraping and groaning as the scare sound. It plays every time it triggers.
Safety: the crank and the pushrod are pinch points, and a wiper motor is strong enough to hurt fingers. Keep the box closed with the motor inside, and put the prop behind a barrier or a fence so guests can't reach the slot. Weatherproofing guide →
A zombie bursts out of a fresh mound of dirt, lunging forward and pulling back as it tries to drag itself free. There's no box to dig in: everything sits on a plywood plate staked to the lawn, and the dirt mound and the zombie's tattered clothes hide the motor, hinge and pushrod.
Everything is built on one plywood plate that sits on the lawn. The zombie's torso is a light wooden frame hinged at the waist near the front of the plate. A wiper motor at the back turns a crank, and a pushrod from the crank to the frame's spine rocks the torso from leaning back to lunging forward at the guests.
A dirt mound built from chicken wire and burlap covers the plate up to the zombie's waist. The pushrod runs from the mound into a slit in the back of the jacket, and the jacket tail drapes over it, so nothing mechanical shows from the front or the sides.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Motor | 12V car wiper motor | Plenty of torque for a dressed torso. Mount it on a block so the shaft sits about 4" above the plate |
| Speed control | 12V PWM DC motor speed controller, 10A+ | Slows the motor to a lurching ~22 RPM |
| Base plate | 3/4" plywood, about 2' x 3' | Paint it or seal it, since it sits on wet grass |
| Torso frame | 1x2 lumber spine (about 22") and shoulder bar (about 16") | Bulk it out with pool noodles or foam so the clothes fill out |
| Hip hinge | 3" door hinge on a 2x4 block | Screw the block to the front of the plate |
| Pushrod | 1x2 lumber or 1/2" EMT conduit, about 23" | Eye bolts or rod ends at each end |
| Crank arm | 1/4" steel flat bar, about 3" long | Bolts to the wiper motor's output shaft |
| Zombie | Foam head or zombie mask, foam or PVC arms, latex hands or stuffed gloves | Keep it light. Every pound on the torso is load on the motor |
| Clothes | Thrift-store shirt and a loose jacket, one size too big | Shred, dirty and dry-brush them. The jacket hides the pushrod |
| Mound | Chicken wire, burlap, spray adhesive, mulch or peat | Leave room inside for the crank to turn freely |
| Anchoring | Landscape stakes or sandbags | Keeps the plate from walking as the torso lunges |
| Weather cover | Plastic tub or a cut bottle over the motor | Keep rain and dew off the motor and the wiring |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more, plus an outdoor extension cord | Plug into a GFCI outlet |
| Trigger (optional) | Prop Controller or Prop Manager relay, or a PIR sensor | Makes the zombie lunge as guests walk up |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
Wire it like the groundbreaker: R1 switches a 40A automotive relay, and the wiper's park switch brings the zombie back to its rest position after every run. Set the crank so park is the zombie leaning back.
For a puff of fog as it rises, wire R3's COM and NO across the two wires of your fog machine's remote button. That circuit carries no 12V. The relay just presses the button for you.
Keep the auto relay and the fuse inside the mound with the motor, under the rain cover, and run only the thin coil wires back to the controller.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Use a longer crank arm, or attach the pushrod lower on the spine, closer to the hinge.
Shorten the pushrod. Lengthen it if the zombie leans back too far.
About 22 RPM looks like a struggle. Faster and it starts to look like a rocking chair.
Loose elbow joints and a little weight in the hands make the arms swing on every lunge for free.
Rub dirt into the clothes, hair and hands. Glue a little mulch on the shoulders as if it just broke through.
Put a tombstone or a wooden cross behind it and rake loose dirt around the mound so it looks freshly dug.
Use a low green uplight from in front. Leave the back of the mound dark.
Hide the controller's speaker in the mound and upload moaning and dirt-scraping as the scare sound.
Safety: the crank and the pushrod are pinch points under the mound and the jacket, and a wiper motor is strong. Keep guests back with a fence or a barrier, keep the jacket clear of the crank, and use a GFCI outlet for anything outdoors. Weatherproofing guide →
A zombie lies on its belly across the path and drags itself toward the guests, one clawing arm after the other. A wiper motor hidden in its chest turns a double crank, and each arm slides through a pivot at the shoulder, so the hands reach forward, slap down on the ground and drag back like it's pulling itself along.
It's the same slider-crank as the gravedigger, used twice. A wiper motor in the chest turns a double crank, a flat bar with a pin at each end, 180° apart. Each arm is a straight rod pinned to one end of the crank. It runs forward through a loose pivot at its shoulder, and the forearm and hand stick out past the pivot.
Because the shoulder pivot acts like a lever, a small circle at the crank becomes a big loop at the hand: up and forward, down onto the ground, then a drag back toward the body. With the pins opposite each other, one arm reaches while the other pulls, just like crawling. A spring under the head lets it bob and loll with each pull.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Motor | 12V car wiper motor | Pulling both arms takes torque. Mount it inside the chest on a 2x4 riser |
| Speed control | 12V PWM DC motor speed controller, 10A+ | Slows the crawl to a creepy ~18 RPM |
| Double crank | 1/4" steel flat bar, about 9½" long, centered on the motor shaft | A shoulder bolt at each end, 4" from the shaft, as the crank pins |
| Arm rods | Two 3/4" PVC pipes or 1x2 lumber, about 21" long | Drill one end for the crank pin. Use spacers so the two arms clear each other |
| Shoulder pivots | Two 1" PVC tees or pipe clamps on bolts | Loose enough for the arm to slide and tilt, about 8" in front of the motor shaft |
| Base board | 3/4" plywood, about 1' x 2' | Holds the riser and motor under the chest. Seal it against wet grass |
| Body | Chicken wire or foam chest shell, foam head or zombie mask, foam forearms, latex hands | The shell has to clear the crank. Leave the hands light |
| Clothes | Torn shirt and jacket, old jeans stuffed with plastic bags | Cut the sleeves wide so the arm rods slide inside freely |
| Anchoring | Landscape stakes or sandbags | Stops the body from rocking or creeping as the arms pull |
| Weather cover | Plastic bag or tub around the motor | Keep rain and dew off the motor and the wiring |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more, plus an outdoor extension cord | Plug into a GFCI outlet |
| Trigger (optional) | Prop Controller or Prop Manager relay, or a PIR sensor | Starts the crawl as guests walk up |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
Same wiring as the groundbreaker. R1 switches a 40A automotive relay, and the park switch stops the crank in the same place every time.
Set the double crank on the shaft so that park leaves both hands resting on the ground. Then, between runs, it looks like a body lying still until it suddenly starts to crawl.
Mount the auto relay and the fuse inside the chest shell, away from the crank, and cover them with the motor's rain cover.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Use a longer crank bar, or move the shoulder pivots closer to the motor for more swing at the hands.
Lower the shoulder pivots or lengthen the forearms so the hands press into the ground and drag.
About 18 RPM looks like a desperate crawl. Slow it down for a dying, exhausted zombie.
Glue a little grit or rubber to the fingertips so they catch the dirt and flick it on each pull.
Rake a trail of disturbed dirt and leaves behind the legs, as if it crawled all the way from the graveyard.
Put it just off the path, facing the guests, so the hands reach toward their feet.
A dim, low uplight from in front throws long clawing shadows from the hands.
Hide the controller's speaker in the chest and upload groaning and scraping as the scare sound.
Safety: the crank inside the chest and the arm rods sliding through the shoulders are pinch points, and a wiper motor is strong. Keep it behind a low barrier so guests can't step on it or grab an arm, keep the clothing clear of the crank, and use a GFCI outlet for anything outdoors. Weatherproofing guide →
A ghoul's head and clawed hands rise slowly from behind a tombstone, peer at the guests over the top, then drop back out of sight. A wiper motor behind the stone pushes the head up on a drawer slide, and its built-in park switch means one trigger gives exactly one peek, ending with the head hidden.
A 2x4 post stands behind the tombstone with a drawer slide screwed to its front face. A small carriage on the slide carries the head on a short pole and the hands on a short crossbar. A wiper motor on the post turns a 4" crank, and a 9" pushrod from the crank to the carriage pushes it up and pulls it back down, about 8" in all.
At the top of the stroke the crank is nearly straight up, so the head slows and lingers for a moment while it stares, then drops away quickly. Wiper motors have a park switch built in. Wired through it, a short pulse from a relay or a motion sensor runs exactly one cycle and stops with the head hidden.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Motor | 12V car wiper motor with its park switch | Use one with the park wires intact. Pinouts vary, so look up yours before wiring |
| Speed control (optional) | 12V PWM DC motor speed controller, 10A+ | Slow it down for a creepier, slower rise |
| Tombstone | 2" foam insulation board, at least 24" tall and 18" wide | Carve, paint and weather it. It has to be taller than the hidden head |
| Post | 2x4, about 30" tall, on a 3/4" plywood base about 1' x 2' | Brace it with corner blocks so it doesn't wobble |
| Slide | Full-extension drawer slide, 12" or longer | Ball-bearing slides glide smoothly and take the side load |
| Carriage | Small plywood block screwed to the moving part of the slide | Mount the head pole and hand bar to it |
| Crank arm | 1/4" steel flat bar, about 4" long | Bolts to the wiper motor's output shaft |
| Pushrod | 1x2 lumber or flat bar, about 9" | Pivot bolts or eye bolts at each end |
| Head and hands | Foam or latex ghoul mask on a foam head, latex hands | Keep them light. Paint the eyes with glow paint or add two small LEDs |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more, plus an outdoor extension cord | Plug into a GFCI outlet |
| Trigger | Prop Controller or Prop Manager relay, or a PIR sensor | A short pulse starts one peek. The park switch finishes it |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
This is where the park switch really pays off. R1 only needs a short pulse to get the motor moving off park, and the park switch keeps it turning until the head is hidden again. One pulse, one peek.
Make the pulse longer than it takes to leave park (about 0.3 s) but shorter than one full peek (about 2.5 s at 24 RPM). 500 ms works at normal speed. Use up to 1,000 ms if you slow the motor down a lot.
For the eyes, use 12V LEDs with built-in resistors, wired through R2 like the uplights on the other props.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Use a longer crank arm, or move the slide up the post so more of the face clears the stone.
Slow the motor with a PWM controller. The pause at the top gets longer as the motor slows.
Hold the relay on instead of pulsing it, and the head keeps bobbing up and down until you let go.
Use a ball-bearing slide and keep the pushrod pivots loose so nothing binds near the top.
Two small red or green LEDs in the eye sockets make the peek visible from far down the path.
Uplight the face of the stone and leave the space behind it dark, so the head appears out of nowhere.
Hide it among plain tombstones so guests don't know which one to watch.
Upload a low growl or a hiss as the scare sound and hide the speaker behind the stone. It plays with the peek and gets everyone looking.
Safety: the crank and the slide are pinch points behind the stone, and a wiper motor is strong. Make sure guests can't reach behind the stone, keep the motor dry, and use a GFCI outlet for anything outdoors. Weatherproofing guide →
How to keep your motors, controllers and power dry through a month of rain, dew and cold nights. The aim is to shelter everything from water while still letting air move: a fully sealed box traps condensation, and on a cold October night that can do more harm than the rain.
Wiper motors are built to handle splash and spray under the cowl, not rain from above. Keep the body in its original orientation so any drain or vent hole points down.
An upside-down plastic tub or a cut-off bucket over the motor, open at the bottom, keeps rain off and lets air through. Leave clearance so the crank never touches it.
Raise the motor on a block so it never sits in a puddle or wet mulch. Paint or seal the plywood base so it doesn't soak up water and warp.
Use adhesive-lined heat-shrink on every splice and dielectric grease in spade connectors. Leave a drip loop in each wire so water drips off below the motor.
Paint the steel crank and brackets, and spray exposed metal and bolts with a corrosion inhibitor such as ACF-50 or Corrosion X.
A motor inside a chest shell or a dirt mound still needs its own cover. Wet clothing and burlap hold water against it for days.
An IP65 or IP66 plastic junction box works well. Plastic doesn't block WiFi. A metal box would cut off the Prop Manager's wireless signal and the controller's web page.
Bring every cable in through a cable gland on the bottom face, never the top, and leave a drip loop on each one just before the gland.
Add a membrane breather vent, or a few silica gel packs that you swap every few nights, so condensation doesn't build up on the board and relays.
Hang the box on a stake, a post or the back of a tombstone rather than setting it on the grass. Leave air space around the relays and the supply, since they get warm.
If you want to see the OLED, mount it behind a clear window in the lid, sealed with silicone, rather than cutting an open hole.
For heavy rain, unplug and bring the electronics inside. Props can sit out, but a controller costs a lot more than a tub.
Plug into a GFCI outlet with an in-use bubble cover. Use outdoor-rated extension cords and put every cord joint in a weatherproof cord connector box.
Keep 120V at the house or in one covered box. Run 12V out to the props on outdoor low-voltage landscape wire.
Wiper motors pull several amps, more at startup. Thin wire over a long run drops the voltage and the motor slows or stalls. See the table, or put a 12V supply near each prop.
| Wire gauge | Longest run at 5A | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| 16 AWG | about 25 ft | Props right next to the supply |
| 14 AWG | about 40 ft | Most front-yard layouts |
| 12 AWG | about 60 ft | Wiper motors across the yard |
| 10 AWG | about 100 ft | Long runs, or two motors sharing a line up to about 50 ft |
Run length is one way, from the supply to the prop. It keeps the voltage drop to about 1V at 5A, which a 12V motor handles fine.
Safety: water and 120V don't mix. Keep all mains connections off the ground and covered, use GFCI protection on every outdoor outlet, and never open a wet box while it's plugged in.
How to connect motors, lights and sensors to the Prop Controller's relay outputs, and how to read the suggested programs on each project page. Every DIY prop here uses one of two circuits: a small motor straight off a relay, or a wiper motor through an automotive relay with its park switch.
The relays don't send out any power. Wire a relay in line with the prop's own 12V supply: 12V into COM and out of NO to the prop. The prop is on while its row runs.
Run the controller on its own 12V adapter and the motors on a bigger 12V supply. The relay keeps them apart, so a motor starting up can't brown out and reset the controller.
Wiper motors can pull 10–20A for a moment at startup. The controller's relays are rated 5A, so they switch the coil of a 40A automotive relay, and that relay carries the motor current.
Put an inline blade fuse right at the supply on each motor's +12V wire: about 15A for a wiper motor and 3–5A for a small gearmotor.
Some motors are different: on a few makes the park contact switches to ground instead. If the motor won't stop at park, or blows the fuse at park, check the pinout for your motor before going further.
How long the relay stays on, in milliseconds. 1,000 ms is one second.
The time from when a row starts until the next row starts. 0 starts the next row at the same moment, which is how a light and a motor come on together.
A step ends only when every relay it turned on is off again, then it waits its own pause before the next step. The last step's pause works as a cooldown.
A new trigger is ignored while a sequence is running, so a crowd walking past the sensor won't stack up scares.
Use a PIR sensor with a relay or dry-contact output, wired between TRIG and GND. A small sensor can run from the controller's +5V terminal.
A step pad under the doormat or the path is a plain switch. Wire its two leads to TRIG and GND.
Pair the controller with a button on the Prop Manager to trigger it wirelessly, with no cable to the prop.
Use the button on the Sequence page to test the whole program from your phone while you watch the prop.
| Relay | Prop | Circuit |
|---|---|---|
| R1 | Gravedigger shovel motor | A, straight off the relay |
| R2 | Groundbreaker wiper motor | C, auto relay and park |
| R3 | Rising zombie wiper motor | C, auto relay and park |
| R4 | Ground crawler wiper motor | C, auto relay and park |
| R5 | Tombstone peeker wiper motor | C, auto relay and park |
| R6 | Uplights for the whole graveyard | 12V lights through the relay |
| R7 | Peeker's glowing eyes | 12V LEDs through the relay |
| R8 | Fog machine remote | Dry contact across the remote button |
With one controller, each prop's wires run back to it, so use the wire sizes in the weatherproofing guide. A Prop Controller at each prop, triggered from the Prop Manager, avoids long runs.
Safety: each output is rated 5A. Keep motors on automotive relays, fuse every 12V line at the supply, and unplug anything that runs on wall power before you wire it in.
A body bag hangs from a dead tree, perfectly still, until someone walks under it. Then whatever is inside starts kicking, twisting and fighting to get out. A wiper motor inside the bag spins an off-center weight, and that violent wobble does all the work. No linkage, no cranks to set, and one of the scariest props for the money.
A 2x4 runs down the inside of the bag like a spine, hung from the top on an eye bolt and a rope. A wiper motor is bolted to the spine at chest height with a short crank arm, and a stack of heavy washers or a small weight is bolted to the end of the crank.
As the weight spins, it throws the whole bag around: side to side, twisting on the rope, with the legs kicking at a different rhythm. Hung on a rope rather than a rigid mount, the motion is never quite the same twice, which is what makes it look alive.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Motor | 12V car wiper motor | High speed works well here. Faster means a more violent thrash |
| Spine | 2x4 about 4 ft long, with a short cross piece at the shoulders | Gives the bag a body shape and carries the motor |
| Weight | 2–3 lb of large washers or a small barbell plate | Bolt it tight with a lock nut. A loose weight flying off is dangerous |
| Crank arm | 1/4" steel flat bar, 4–5" long | Bolts to the wiper motor's output shaft |
| Bag | Black body bag, tarp or a dark sleeping bag with a zipper | Fill out the shape with pool noodles or foam around the spine |
| Hanging | 3/8" eye bolt, rope or chain, and a strong branch or gallows frame | Use a safety line too. No swivel, or it just spins |
| Light (optional) | 12V red strobe light | Flashes with the thrash for a strobe-frozen look |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more, plus an outdoor extension cord | Run the cable down the rope and tie it off so it never pulls on the motor terminals |
| Trigger | Prop Controller or Prop Manager relay, or a PIR sensor | The bag hangs still until it triggers |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
Wire it like the groundbreaker. R1 switches a 40A automotive relay, and the wiper's park switch stops the weight at the bottom after every run, so the bag hangs still between scares.
Mount the auto relay and the fuse on the spine near the motor, inside the bag, and run only the power cable and the thin coil wires down the rope.
An eccentric weight shakes everything. Use crimped ring terminals and lock nuts, and check the connections each night.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Add weight or use a longer crank arm. Go up in small steps and check the hanging point each time.
Use rope rather than chain, and no swivel, so it twists one way and unwinds back.
Hang it lower so the feet brush the ground or a pile of leaves. The scuffing sound sells it.
Short runs with gaps between them look more alive than one long thrash. See the program below.
Run the controller's speaker into the bag and upload muffled screaming and thumping as the scare sound.
A few dark stains on the bag and the ground underneath go a long way.
Keep it dimly lit from one side. A red strobe during the thrash freezes the motion in frames.
Hang it over a path, just above head height, so guests walk right under it.
Safety: this prop swings hard and the weight carries a lot of force. Hang it from something that can take far more than its weight, add a safety line, keep it out of reach of guests, and make sure the weight can never come loose. Weatherproofing guide →
An open coffin rests on a draped stand with candles at each end. As guests lean in for a look, the corpse sits bolt upright, turns its head and reaches out, then slowly lies back down. A wiper motor under the coffin pushes the body up from below through a slot in the coffin floor.
The corpse's torso is a light wooden board hinged at the hips to a block on the coffin floor. A wiper motor hangs under the coffin, hidden by the stand's drape, with a 4" crank. A 13" pushrod runs up through a slot in the coffin floor to the back of the torso, about 8" from the hinge.
Each turn of the crank pushes the torso up from flat to about 70°, sitting up, and lowers it back down. The park switch always stops it lying flat, so between scares the coffin looks like it just holds a body.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Motor | 12V car wiper motor | Mounted under the coffin floor on a plywood bracket |
| Speed control | 12V PWM DC motor speed controller, 10A+ | A slow, deliberate sit-up is far creepier than a fast one |
| Coffin | Wooden or foam coffin, at least 14" deep, on a sturdy stand or table | The stand needs a drape or skirt to hide the motor |
| Torso board | 1x6 board about 20" long, with a short shoulder cross piece | Pad it with foam so the suit fills out |
| Hip hinge | 3" door hinge on a block screwed to the coffin floor | The torso hinges up toward the head end |
| Pushrod | 1x2 lumber or flat bar, about 13" | Eye bolts or pivot bolts at each end |
| Crank arm | 1/4" steel flat bar, about 4" long | Bolts to the wiper motor's output shaft |
| Corpse | Foam or latex head, gloves or latex hands, an old suit | Arms hang from the shoulders on loose pivots so they swing forward |
| Candles | 12V flicker LED candles | Wired together on R2 |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more | Plug into a GFCI outlet if it's outside |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
Wire it like the groundbreaker. R1 switches a 40A automotive relay, and the park switch returns the body to lying flat after every run.
A pressure mat in front of the coffin works well as the trigger. It fires right as someone leans in to look.
Mount the auto relay and the fuse under the coffin with the motor, behind the drape.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Shorten the pushrod a little or attach it closer to the hinge. Check that the torso never goes past vertical.
Slow it to 10–12 RPM. A slow rise and a slow fall feel much more unnatural than a quick one.
Mount the head on a short spring so it lolls and turns as the body moves.
Hang the arms on loose pivots. They swing forward on their own as the body sits up.
Set it up like a wake: a few chairs, flowers and a framed photo. Guests walk right up to look.
Light it only with the flicker candles. When the body moves, the shadows jump.
Upload a slow creak and a long breath out as the scare sound, with the speaker under the coffin.
Pale gray skin, sunken eyes and a satin pillow make it read as a body at a glance.
Safety: the crank and pushrod under the coffin are pinch points, and a wiper motor is strong. Keep the drape closed, keep guests' hands out of the coffin while it moves, and use a GFCI outlet for anything outdoors. Weatherproofing guide →
Right at the edge of the path, a hand bursts up out of the dirt, claws at the air three times, and is gone before anyone can get a good look. It's driven by air: a small cylinder buried under a patch of dirt, switched by a 12V air valve on the Prop Controller. It's fast and loud, and it gets everyone, every time.
A double-acting air cylinder, 1" bore and 6" stroke, is buried upright in a small box under the dirt, with a hand on the end of its rod. A 12V 5-port valve sends air to push the rod up when R1 turns on, and back down when it turns off.
Air from a small tank or compressor goes through a regulator set to 40–60 psi. Flow-control fittings on the cylinder set how fast it moves. The burst happens in a fraction of a second, so short, choppy rows in the program make it look like it's clawing at something.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Air cylinder | Double-acting, 1" bore, 6" stroke | A cheap pneumatic cylinder with a threaded rod end |
| Valve | 12V DC 5/2 single-solenoid valve, spring return | On pushes the rod up, off brings it back down |
| Flow control | Two flow-control fittings, one on each cylinder port | Set to meter-out to control speed in both directions |
| Air supply | Portable air tank or compressor, regulator, 1/4" tubing and push-to-connect fittings | 40–60 psi is plenty |
| Mufflers | Two small exhaust mufflers for the valve | Quieter, and keeps dirt out of the valve |
| Box | Small wooden box, about 8" x 8" x 16" deep, with a slotted lid | Buried flush or hidden in a low mound |
| Hand | Latex or foam zombie hand on a short forearm | Bolt it to the rod end. Keep it light |
| Cover | Burlap and dirt or mulch with a slit over the rod | The hand pushes up through the slit |
| Spotlight (optional) | 12V LED spotlight | Wired to R2, so it flashes with each grab |
| Air sensor (optional) | The Prop Controller's air pressure add-on | Warns you before the tank runs low |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 2A or more | Runs the valve and the spotlight |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
A 12V air valve coil draws well under 1A, so it runs straight off R1 like the gravedigger's gearmotor: 12V into COM, NO to the coil, and the other coil lead to ground.
Put a diode such as a 1N4007 across the valve coil, stripe to the + side, to protect the relay contacts. Some valves come with one built into the plug.
If you fit the air pressure add-on, set a low-pressure alarm on the Setup page so you know to refill the tank before the hand gets lazy.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Raise the pressure toward 60 psi, or open the flow controls.
Close the flow controls down so the hand rises slowly. Then the quick drop back is the scare.
Short rows of 300–500 ms with small gaps make it look like it's grabbing for something.
Add mufflers to the valve and put a little foam in the box so the cylinder doesn't bang.
Put it right at the path edge, at ankle height, where people are watching their feet.
Upload a wet dirt-tearing sound and a groan as the scare sound. It starts with the first grab and makes people jump twice.
A single low spotlight that flashes on with each grab makes it hard to see, which is scarier.
Scatter two or three dead-looking static hands nearby so guests never know which one is real.
Safety: the hand comes up hard and fast. Keep it out of reach of guests' feet and faces, start testing at low pressure, wear eye protection while you tune it, and let the air out before you work on the cylinder or fittings. Weatherproofing guide →
A boarded-up window in the wall looks like part of the set, until the board drops out of sight with a loud slam and there's a ghoul staring out. An air cylinder under the panel holds it up. When the valve fires, the rod pulls away, the panel free-falls onto a hardwood strike board, and a closed pocket and sill guard keep everyone's fingers out of the way.
The panel slides up and down in two tracks inside a closed pocket in the wall. It isn't fastened to anything. It just rests on the pad of a 1" bore air cylinder standing on the floor underneath it, and the pushing air holds it up over the window.
When R1 turns on, a 12V valve reverses the air. A quick exhaust valve dumps the lower end of the cylinder, and the rod pulls down faster than the panel can fall, so the panel drops 20" freely and slams onto an oak strike board. The rod tucks into a hole in the board, so the panel lands on wood, not on the rod.
When R1 turns off, the valve springs back, and the cylinder slowly lifts the panel back over the window. A flow control sets that speed. A sill guard closes the top of the pocket except for a 3/8" slot for the panel, so nobody can reach down to the strike board.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Air cylinder | Double-acting, 1" bore, 21" stroke, rear pivot (clevis) mount | The stroke is the drop plus 1". A 20" stroke works if you raise the strike board 1" |
| Valve | 12V DC 5/2 single-solenoid valve, spring return | Off holds the panel up, on drops it |
| Quick exhaust valve | 1/8" NPT quick exhaust valve on the cylinder's lower port | Dumps the air right at the cylinder, so the rod gets out of the way faster than the panel falls |
| Flow control | Meter-out flow control on the cylinder's upper port | Sets how slowly the panel rises back up |
| Air supply | Tank or compressor, regulator with gauge, 1/4" tubing, push-to-connect fittings, valve muffler | 40–60 psi is plenty |
| Panel | 1/4" plywood, 26" × 20", aged and painted to match the wall | Keep it light, about 3–4 lb |
| Edge cap | 1/4" aluminum U-channel, 26", on the panel's bottom edge | Takes the impact and the rod pad, so the plywood doesn't split |
| Tracks | Two 1/2" aluminum U-channels, 42" long | Mount them on cleats so the panel slides freely with a little side play |
| Strike board | Oak or maple 2x4, 28" long, with a 1" hole for the rod | Hardwood is loud and lasts. Bolt it between the studs |
| Sill guard | 3/4" plywood cap with a 3/8" slot, plus brush strip | The finger guard. See detail A on the blueprint |
| 2x4 stud wall section, 1/2" plywood facade, screwed-on back panel and header | Closes in the panel, board and cylinder on every side | |
| Reveal light | 12V LED spotlight or red flood behind the window | Wired to R2 |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop from the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Air pressure add-on | The Prop Controller's air add-on, wired to the controller's AIR terminal | Shows the pressure, sounds low and high alarms, and can stop the show when the air is low |
| Pressure sensor | 3-wire transducer, 0.5–4.5V output, 5V supply, 150 psi, in a tee after the regulator | The listing must say 0.5–4.5V. 4–20 mA and 0–10V sensors won't work |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
The valve coil draws well under 1A, so it runs straight off R1 like the grabbing hand: 12V into COM, NO to the coil, and the other coil lead to ground, with a diode such as a 1N4007 across the coil.
R1 on drops the panel and R1 off lets it rise, so R1's duration is how long the panel stays down. With a spring-return valve, the resting state with nothing switched on is panel up.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the scare sound on its Sound page and wire a speaker to SPK+ and SPK−. It starts with the sequence, as the panel drops.
The air add-on watches the pressure for this prop. Wiring and settings are below.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Every drop costs a little air, and this prop needs steady pressure to work. Below about 35 psi the panel rises slowly and may not cover the window, and the slam gets weak. Above about 80 psi everything hits harder than it was built for.
Put the sensor in a tee after the regulator, between the regulator and the valve, so it reads the pressure the cylinder actually gets. Each drop shows as a short dip of a few psi that recovers in about a second.
Tick Don't start the sequence when pressure is low. Then a low tank stops the scare and the screen shows "Low air!" instead of the panel half-working.
A hardwood board bolted to a hollow wall booms. On a solid wall it just thuds. Use 1/2" plywood for the facade, not drywall, and keep the pocket hollow. The whole wall acts as the drum.
The quick exhaust valve matters most. Keep the tubing to the lower port short, and raise the pressure toward 60 psi.
Turn the flow control in for a slow, creepy rise. Too fast and the panel bangs into the top of the tracks.
R1's duration is how long the scare is showing. 2–3 s is enough for guests to get a good look.
Age the panel to match the wall around it: the same paint and grime, and a boarded-up or shuttered look. Nobody should notice it.
The slam makes people jump, then the face in the window gets them a second time. Time the reveal light to come on just as the panel lands.
Upload a scream or a growl as the scare sound, starting about 0.3 s in so it lands with the slam, and a low drone as the ambient loop.
Put it at a turn or a narrow spot, where guests are already looking right at it.
Safety: the panel drops hard and fast. Keep the pocket closed on every side with only the 3/8" slot open, cover the window with mesh or clear polycarbonate if guests can reach in, bleed the air before opening the pocket, and wear eye protection while you tune it. If the 12V power fails, the valve springs back and the panel rises slowly. If the air fails, the panel settles down onto the board. Weatherproofing guide →
A quiet, dim kitchen. Then the light dies, a bare bulb starts to flicker, the pots on the shelf rattle, both cabinet doors bang open and a chair slides out from the table as if someone invisible just got up. In the dark, everything puts itself back. Six relays, three air cylinders and one trigger, all timed by the Prop Controller, which also plays the sound.
Each effect is its own simple mechanism on its own relay. Small air cylinders on the cabinet ceilings push the two doors open. A small gearmotor with an off-center weight under the shelf shakes the pots. A longer cylinder lying on the floor under the table pushes the chair out by its front leg.
The three cylinders share one 12V valve manifold hidden in the base cabinet. A flicker bulb hangs over the room, the controller's own sound board plays the rumble and the bangs through a speaker, and the room's normal light is wired through the NC side of a relay, so it stays on until the scare starts.
The scare is all in the timing. One trigger runs a single step in which every row starts a fraction of a second after the last, so the room comes apart in a quick, building rush. Then, in the dark, the doors swing shut and the chair slides home.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Door cylinders | Two double-acting air cylinders, 3/4" bore, 2" stroke, with clevis mounts | One per door, mounted on the cabinet ceiling |
| Chair cylinder | Double-acting air cylinder, 1" bore, 8" stroke | Lies on a floor board under the table |
| Valves | 3-station manifold with three 12V DC 5/2 single-solenoid valves and mufflers | R1, R2 and R4. Hide it in the base cabinet |
| Flow controls | One meter-out flow control on each cylinder's return port | The doors open fast and close slowly and quietly |
| Shaker | Small 12V gearmotor, 100–200 RPM, with a 2–3 oz off-center weight | Screw it under the shelf, inside a small box |
| Pots and pans | Old pots, a kettle and a frying pan on S-hooks | Loose on hooks, so they swing and clang |
| Cabinets | Upper cabinet 30" × 30" × 12", base cabinet and countertop | Thrift-store or a built flat with real doors |
| Table and chair | Small kitchen table with a cloth down to the floor, and a light wooden chair | Felt pads on the chair feet so it glides |
| Lights | 12V flicker bulb on a cord, and the room's normal 12V light | Flicker on R5, room light on R6's NC terminal |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop from the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Air supply | Tank or compressor, regulator with gauge, 1/4" tubing and push-to-connect fittings | 50 psi |
| Air pressure add-on | The Prop Controller's air add-on with a 0.5–4.5V, 150 psi sensor in a tee after the regulator | Three cylinders drain a tank fast. Let the controller watch it |
| Wiring | Five 1N4007 diodes, 18 AWG wire, a 12V supply of 5A or more | A diode across each valve coil and the motor |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
R1 to R5 each switch +12V to one device, so jumper all five COM terminals together to the +12V supply. Each device's other lead goes to ground, with a 1N4007 diode across each valve coil and the motor, stripe to the + side.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the scare sound and an ambient loop on its Sound page and wire a speaker to SPK+ and SPK−. The scare sound starts with the sequence.
The room light goes to R6's NC terminal, so it's on whenever R6 is off. Turning R6 on for the whole scare is what makes the room go dark.
A motion sensor or a mat at the room's doorway is the trigger. The controller ignores more triggers while the sequence runs, so a crowd only sets it off once.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Three cylinders fire within a second of each other, all from one tank, so this room drains the air faster than any other project. Each scare dips the pressure by several psi.
Below about 35 psi the doors open lazily and the chair may not move at all, which kills the effect. Put the sensor in a tee after the regulator, before the manifold, so it reads what the cylinders get.
Tick Don't start the sequence when pressure is low. A low tank then stops the scare and the screen shows "Low air!" instead of a half-working room.
The order matters more than any single effect. Start small with the flicker and the pots, and save the doors and the chair for the end.
Open the door flow controls for a bang, or close them a little for a slow creak open. Closing should always be slow and quiet.
Felt pads and a smooth floor make the slide look effortless. If it jerks, lower the chair cylinder's flow.
Keep the room light off (R6) until every cylinder has fully returned. Guests should never see it reset.
Old dishes, a half-eaten meal on the table and a calendar from decades ago make it look abandoned in a hurry.
Paint the cylinders black, and run tubing along the back of the cabinets and under the table where nobody looks.
Upload a low rumble that builds to a crash as the scare sound, with the crashes lined up at 1.2 s and 1.6 s for the doors, and a quiet ticking clock as the ambient loop.
A scare actor stepping through a back door just as the chair slides out turns it into a story.
Safety: the cabinet doors swing open fast, right at head height. Keep guests at least an arm's length back with a rail or table, make sure nothing can open into a face, box in the shaker weight, and bleed the air before working on any cylinder. Weatherproofing guide →
A door at the end of the hall is chained and padlocked from the outside, and something on the other side wants out. It hammers on the door so hard the door jumps in its frame and the chain rattles, while red light spills out underneath. A wiper motor behind the door spins a two-flail beater that strikes the back of the door and folds out of the way. It's cheap, it's loud, and nobody wants to walk past it.
A wiper motor sits on a 2x4 post 7" behind the door, its shaft level at 48" and parallel to the door. On the shaft is a short flat-bar beater with a hardwood flail on each end, each free to swing on a bolt. As it spins, the flails fly outward and reach ½" past the back of the door.
Each flail hits the door, folds back on its bolt and swings past, so it never jams, and two flails mean two hits per turn. The door has a little play in its latch and is held by a chain with some slack, so every hit makes it jump and rattle in its frame.
The wiper's park switch always stops the beater vertical, with both flails clear of the door. Between scares, the door hangs still and quiet.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Motor | 12V car wiper motor with its park switch, and a 40A automotive relay | High speed gives about two hits a second |
| Beater | 1/4" × 1" steel flat bar, 9" long, with a center hole for the wiper shaft | Holes 4" each side of center for the flails |
| Flails | Two 3½" pieces of hardwood 2x2, each with a rubber pad on its striking face | Cut the pads from a rubber door stop or an old mallet |
| Pivots | Two 5/16" × 2½" bolts with washers and nylock nuts | Snug, but the flails must swing freely |
| Door | Hollow-core interior door, 30" × 80", in its own frame or flat | Hollow-core is lighter and much louder than solid |
| Strike pad | 1/4" plywood, 12" × 12", glued and screwed to the back of the door | Protects the thin door skin |
| Post | 2x4 from floor to header behind the door, with a plywood motor plate | Bolt it to the floor and the header so it can't walk |
| Hasp and chain | Heavy hasp, a short chain and an old padlock on the guest side | The chain holds the door shut. Leave ½" of slack |
| Red glow | 12V red LED strip on the floor behind the door | On R2. It spills out of the 1" gap under the door |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop from the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more | Plug into a GFCI outlet |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
Wire it like the groundbreaker. R1 switches a 40A automotive relay, and the wiper's park switch finishes each turn so the beater always stops vertical, clear of the door.
Short bursts work because the park switch always finishes the turn. Even a 0.5 s pulse gives at least one full turn, which is two hits.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the scare sound and an ambient loop on its Sound page and put the speaker behind the door, wired to SPK+ and SPK−.
Mount the auto relay and the fuse on the post next to the motor, behind the door.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Use heavier flails, or move the shaft ¼" closer to the door. Check the door and hinges after every change.
Give the latch more play and the chain more slack, but never so much that the door can open.
Bursts with gaps sound like something gathering itself. One long run just sounds like a machine.
The wiper's high speed gives frantic pounding, and low speed sounds like slow, heavy blows.
Stencil a warning on the door, add scratch marks around the frame and nail a few boards across it.
Keep the hallway dark so the red glow under the door is the brightest thing there.
Upload muffled screaming as the scare sound and something heavy being dragged as the ambient loop, with the speaker behind the door. It sells the idea that someone is in there.
Put it where guests have to walk right past it, ideally toward it down a narrow hall.
Safety: the beater is a fast, heavy spinning part. Close in the back of the mechanism so nobody, crew included, can reach it while it runs, make sure the hasp and chain hold the door shut even if the latch fails, and plug into a GFCI outlet. Weatherproofing guide →
A sealed lab cell stencilled "Specimen 07" sits quietly under a green light, with a zombie just visible behind a row of steel poles. When guests reach the rail, the alarm goes off, a red beacon spins, the strobes fire and the zombie throws itself at the poles three times, its arms shooting out between the bars. An air cylinder hidden behind the front wall pulls it forward on a floor hinge.
The zombie is a foam figure on a steel spine, hinged at the floor 24" behind the poles. Its arms are fixed reaching forward. At rest it leans back slightly, with its hands well inside the cell.
An air cylinder lies almost flat behind the front wall, below the opening, where guests can't see it. Its rod is pinned to the spine 20" above the hinge. When the valve fires, the rod pulls in and the whole zombie lunges forward 18°. The arms shoot 7" out between the poles while the body stays a foot behind them.
The cylinder's full stroke is the stop, so the zombie can never reach further than the blueprint says. The poles sit loosely in their rails, so they rattle on every lunge. A guest rail 36" out keeps everyone well beyond the hands.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Air cylinder | Double-acting, 1½" bore, 6" stroke, with clevis mounts at both ends | Lies behind the front wall and pulls the zombie forward |
| Valve | 12V DC 5/2 single-solenoid valve, spring return, with mufflers | On lunges, off pulls the zombie back |
| Flow control | Meter-out flow control on the return port | Sets how slowly the zombie sinks back |
| Air supply | Tank or compressor, regulator with gauge, 1/4" tubing and push-to-connect fittings | About 60 psi |
| Cell | 3/4" plywood on a 2x4 frame, 36" × 84" × 30" deep, with a 26" × 40" opening and a back access door | Paint it industrial gray with hazard stripes |
| Poles | Four 3/4" EMT conduit poles, 42" long, 5¼" apart | Set loosely in drilled top and bottom rails so they rattle |
| Spine and hinge | 1" square steel tube, about 64", on a heavy strap hinge bolted to a floor plate | The pivot for the whole lunge |
| Zombie | Foam head and torso, slim foam arms and soft latex hands, torn lab scrubs | Keep the arms light and soft. They're the part that reaches out |
| Lights | 12V red LED beacon, two 12V LED strobes and a green LED fill light inside the cell | Beacon on R2, strobes on R3, fill light always on |
| Fog (optional) | Fog machine with a remote button | R4 closes the remote button |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Guest rail | A 36" high rail or stanchions, 36" in front of the poles | Keeps every guest out of reach of the hands |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 5A or more | Runs the valve and the lights |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
The valve coil draws well under 1A, so it runs straight off R1: 12V into COM, NO to the coil, the other coil lead to ground, with a diode across the coil.
R3 switches the strobes the same way as the beacon on R2. R4 is a dry contact across the fog machine's remote button, with no 12V on it.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the alarm as the scare sound and a heartbeat or hum as the ambient loop, and wire the speaker to SPK+ and SPK−.
The lunges are three steps so the beacon and strobes can run straight through them. With "Pause after this step" at 0, each step starts the moment the last one ends.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Raise the pressure toward 70 psi or open the exhaust. A sharp lunge and a slow return is the scariest combination.
Close the flow control on the return so the zombie sinks back as if it's gathering itself for the next try.
Three lunges, with the last one the longest, reads as a creature getting angrier.
Looser holes in the pole rails mean more rattle. A strip of sheet metal on the top rail adds a metallic clang.
Hazard stripes, a warning placard, a fake keypad and a flickering exit sign make it a facility, not a box.
Keep a dim green fill light inside the cell. When the red beacon takes over, the whole mood flips.
Upload a containment-breach alarm with a growl underneath as the scare sound, and a low hum or heartbeat as the ambient loop.
A short burst of fog from inside the cell, with the strobes cutting through it, hides the mechanism and looks great.
Safety: the zombie lunges hard and its hands come out through the poles. Keep the arms soft and light, keep guests behind a rail 36" from the poles, close in the back of the cell so nobody can reach the cylinder or hinge, and bleed the air before working inside. Weatherproofing guide →
The same "Specimen 07" cell, built in wood, with a window in its upper part. Behind the window a zombie shuffles in the dim light, until it notices the guests. It rushes the glass and pounds on it, and with every hit the whole cell shakes and booms. The window is a monitor playing a zombie video, and a hidden thumper inside hits the front panel in time with the video.
The cell is plywood with a window cut in its upper part. Behind the window is a sheet of polycarbonate, and a monitor sits an inch behind that. The reflections in the polycarbonate make the screen read as a real window into the cell.
A media player with a trigger input loops a quiet idle clip until the controller closes its trigger with R3. Then it plays the pounding clip and goes back to idle. Because the controller starts the video, the video and everything else stay in step.
Behind the front panel, a wiper motor spins the same two-flail beater as the pounding door. Each burst on R1 lines up with the zombie's hits on screen, so guests see the hit and feel the cell jump at the same moment. Nothing moves anywhere near the guests.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Monitor | 24–32" monitor or TV with HDMI, landscape | Mount it on a VESA arm 1" behind the polycarbonate |
| Media player | Digital signage player or Raspberry Pi with a trigger input | Loops the idle clip, plays the pounding clip when triggered |
| Video | A zombie video with an idle loop and a pounding clip | Several companies sell these. Check the license for a paid haunt |
| Window | 1/4" polycarbonate, 28" × 17", on the back of the front panel | Scuff and smear it a little so it reads as old glass |
| Thumper motor | 12V car wiper motor with its park switch, and an automotive relay | Mounted behind a plywood plate on a 2x4 post |
| Beater | 1/4" × 1" steel flat bar, 9", with two hardwood 2x2 flails on pivot bolts | The same beater as the pounding door |
| Strike pad | 1/4" plywood, 12" × 12", on the back of the front panel | Where the flails hit |
| Cell | 3/4" plywood on a 2x4 frame, 36" × 84" × 24" deep, with a back access door | Vent it top and bottom for the monitor |
| Lights | 12V red LED beacon and two 12V LED strobes | Beacon on R2, strobes on R4 |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more, plus outlets for the monitor and player | The wiper needs the current |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
The thumper is wired like the pounding door. R1 switches the automotive relay, and the park switch stops the beater clear of the panel after every burst.
R3 is a dry contact. Wire its COM and NO to the media player's trigger input and its ground, with no 12V on it. A 0.5 s pulse starts the clip.
R4 switches the strobes the same way as the beacon on R2.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the scare sound on the Sound page and wire the speaker to SPK+ and SPK−.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Players take a moment to start. If the thumps land early, add that delay to R3's pause after, or trim the start of the video.
Hollow plywood booms. Leave the cell hollow and use 1/2" or thinner plywood for the front panel.
A little dust and a smudge on the polycarbonate does more for the illusion than anything else. A clean screen looks like a TV.
Turn the monitor brightness well down. A real window into a dim cell isn't brighter than the room.
Hazard stripes, a warning placard and a "Specimen 07" plate tie it to the containment theme.
Upload the video's own audio, or an alarm with a growl, as the scare sound, and a low hum as the ambient loop. The speaker in the cell makes the sound come from inside.
Put this next to the barred cell from project 12. Guests flinch at the real zombie, then the window next to it starts pounding.
Paint the inside of the cell black so nothing shows around the screen edges.
Safety: the thumper is a fast spinning part, so close in the back of the cell. Give the monitor and player ventilation, keep mains wiring tidy and away from the motor, and plug everything into a GFCI-protected outlet. Weatherproofing guide →
An old portrait hangs in the hallway under a brass picture light. Guests barely glance at it. Then the light snaps off, the eyes flare red, and the face and hands push out of the canvas toward them, stretching the painting like skin, before sinking back into the frame as the light comes back on.
The portrait is painted on 4-way stretch spandex instead of canvas, stretched across an ornate frame. Behind it is a plywood shadow box about 8" deep, hung on the wall like a deep picture.
Inside the box, a foam face and two clawed hands are mounted on a plywood plate that sits just behind the spandex. A 1" bore air cylinder on the back panel pushes the plate forward 6", and two guide rods keep it from turning.
The spandex stretches over the face and hands, so they push out of the painting as if something is coming through it. A slow return makes them sink back in. The picture light is wired to a relay's NC side, so it's on at rest and goes out for the scare.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Frame | Ornate picture frame with a 24" × 30" opening | Thrift-store frames are perfect. The bigger and gaudier the better |
| Canvas | 4-way stretch spandex, painted as a portrait | Paint thin washes so it still stretches. Fabric paint works best |
| Shadow box | 3/4" plywood box, 8" deep, sized to the frame | Hangs on a french cleat. Paint the inside black |
| Air cylinder | Double-acting, 1" bore, 6" stroke | Mounted on the back panel, pointing out |
| Guide rods | Two 1/2" rods in bushings on the back panel | Keep the face plate square |
| Face and hands | Foam face and two foam or latex clawed hands on a 1/2" plywood plate | Soft foam, so it bumps and never punches |
| Valve | 12V 5/2 valve with a meter-out flow control on the return | Fast out, slow back |
| Air supply | Tank or compressor, regulator with gauge, 1/4" tubing and fittings | About 40 psi |
| Lights | 12V LED picture light and two red LEDs for the eyes | Light on R2's NC terminal, eyes on R3 |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 2A or more | Runs the valve and the LEDs |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
The valve coil draws well under 1A, so it runs straight off R1: 12V into COM, NO to the coil, the other coil lead to ground, with a diode across the coil.
Wire the picture light to R2's NC terminal instead of NO. It stays on until R2 turns on, so the light goes out for the scare and comes back on after.
R3 switches the two red eye LEDs, wired in the face with a resistor each.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the scare sound and ambient loop on its Sound page and hide the speaker in the box.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Slow the return right down. A fast lunge and a slow sink back is far scarier than the reverse.
Use a face with strong features: a big nose, brow and open mouth read clearly through the fabric.
Too tight and the face barely shows. Too loose and the fabric sags. Test before you paint.
Start at 30 psi and work up. The spandex should take the hit, not the face.
Hang it among a few normal portraits, so it's just one more painting.
The picture light is the only light on it. When it snaps off, the red eyes are the first thing guests see.
Upload a scream or a hiss as the scare sound, and quiet clock ticking as the ambient loop.
A stern old face works best. Guests should already feel watched before anything moves.
Safety: the face comes out toward guests at head height. Keep the face and hands soft, run the lowest pressure that looks good, hang it over a table so guests stay back, and bleed the air before working inside the box. Weatherproofing guide →
A figure sits strapped into a heavy wooden chair, a metal cap on its head and wires running up into the dark. When guests step close, the power comes on: the cap crackles blue, fog rolls, the strobe fires, and the body convulses again and again, its head whipping, until one long final jolt holds it rigid.
The figure sits on a plywood seat pan that rests on the chair's seat frame, hinged at its back edge. A short 1" bore cylinder on a cross bar under the seat pushes the front of the pan up 2¾" and drops it again.
The figure is strapped to the pan and the armrests, so every jolt throws the whole body. Its head sits on a door spring for a neck, so it keeps whipping after each jolt.
Short pulses on R1 make the convulsions, with the strobe and the blue sparks in the skull cap firing in step. A final long pulse holds the body lifted and rigid. The buzz, crackle and scream come from the controller's own sound.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Chair | Sturdy wooden armchair with an open seat frame | The heavier and older looking, the better |
| Seat pan | 3/4" plywood, 18" × 18", on a 6" strap hinge at the back | The figure is strapped to this |
| Air cylinder | Double-acting, 1" bore, 2" stroke | On a 2x4 cross bar between the front legs |
| Valve | 12V 5/2 valve with mufflers, no flow controls | The jolt should snap |
| Air supply | Tank or compressor, regulator with gauge, 1/4" tubing and fittings | 50–70 psi |
| Figure | Foam body in old prison clothes, latex hands, a head on a door-spring neck | Light, so it really moves |
| Straps | Leather straps for the wrists, ankles and chest | Rivets and buckles sell it |
| Lights | 12V LED strobe over the chair, blue LED strip inside the skull cap | Strobe on R2, sparks on R3 |
| Fog (optional) | Fog machine with a remote button | R4 closes the remote button |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 2A or more | Runs the valve and the LEDs |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
The valve coil draws well under 1A, so it runs straight off R1: 12V into COM, NO to the coil, the other coil lead to ground, with a diode across the coil.
R3 switches the blue LED strip in the skull cap the same way as the strobe on R2. R4 is a dry contact across the fog machine's remote button.
Each jolt is its own step, so the gaps between jolts are the step pauses. Change them to make the rhythm less regular.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the hum, crackle and scream as the scare sound, and wire the speaker to SPK+ and SPK−.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Raise the pressure toward 70 psi. The figure should jump, not just twitch.
Uneven gaps between jolts look more real than a steady beat. Try changing the step pauses.
A softer spring whips more. Add a little weight to the head if it barely moves.
The long last pulse is the big moment. Hold it a full second with every light on.
A dim execution room: a single hanging lamp, a big knife switch on the wall and a few chairs for witnesses.
Upload a rising hum, crackling arcs and a scream as the scare sound, and a slow ticking clock as the ambient loop.
A short burst of fog from behind the chair, with the strobe cutting through it, looks like smoke rising off the body.
A scare actor as the executioner, throwing the switch just as it triggers, makes it a scene.
Safety: the seat pan pinches when it drops. Keep guests at least 3 ft back with a rail or a row of witness chairs, keep hands off the chair while it runs, and bleed the air before working under the seat. Weatherproofing guide →
A battered shipping crate sits on a pallet, stencilled DO NOT OPEN and LIVE SPECIMEN. It's quiet, until someone walks past. Then the lid bangs up and slams down, red light and a pair of eyes show through the gap, fog leaks out, and the whole crate rocks as whatever is inside fights to get out.
Inside the crate, an air cylinder stands on the floor near the front, its rod under a pad on the lid. The lid is hinged at the back and isn't fixed to the rod. Each pulse pushes the lid up, and when the valve turns off the lid falls back under its own weight with a bang.
Two chains stop the lid at 4" open, and stop blocks in the corners catch it 1½" above the rim. There's always a glowing gap, and never a gap small enough to pinch a finger.
The crate doesn't sit flat. It balances on a 2x4 rocker board, on edge and running front to back down the middle of the pallet, with rubber bumpers ½" below each corner. A wiper motor with an off-center weight is bolted to the crate floor with its shaft running front to back, so the weight swings side to side and the crate rocks on the board and thuds onto the bumpers. A red LED flood inside shines through the gap and the slats, and two small LEDs make eyes in the dark.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Crate | Wooden crate about 36" × 24" × 24" on a pallet, 1x6 slats on a 2x4 frame | Build one, or find a real one |
| Lid | 3/4" plywood with battens, hinged at the back | Heavy enough to slam |
| Lid chains | Two short chains, front corners | Limit the lid to 4" open |
| Stop blocks | Four 2x2 blocks in the corners, 1½" above the rim | The lid lands on these, never on the rim |
| Air cylinder | Double-acting, 1" bore, 4" stroke, on a floor block | Rod pushes a pad on the lid |
| Valve | 12V 5/2 valve with mufflers | R1 |
| Rocker board | A 2x4 on edge, 24" long, screwed to the middle of the pallet front to back, two 2x2 cleats and two loose bolts | The crate balances and rocks on it |
| Bumpers | Four rubber or firm foam blocks, 3" tall, at the pallet corners | ½" below the crate, limit the tip and thud |
| Shaker | 12V wiper motor with a 2 lb off-center weight, and an automotive relay | Bolted to the floor, shaft front to back, on R3 |
| Air supply | Tank or compressor, regulator with gauge, 1/4" tubing and fittings | About 60 psi |
| Lights | 12V red LED flood inside, two yellow LED eyes | On R2 |
| Fog (optional) | Fog machine with a remote button, piped into the crate | R4 closes the remote button |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more | The wiper needs the current |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
The valve coil draws well under 1A, so it runs straight off R1: 12V into COM, NO to the coil, the other coil lead to ground, with a diode across the coil.
The crate rocks, so leave slack in every wire and air line where it enters the crate. The shaker is a wiper motor, so wire it like the body bag: R3 switches an automotive relay, and the park switch stops the weight at the bottom after each run.
R4 is a dry contact across the fog machine's remote button, with no 12V on it.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the snarls and bangs as the scare sound and put the speaker inside the crate.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
A heavier lid slams harder. A sheet of plywood on top of the battens adds weight and a deeper boom.
Irregular bangs sound like something alive. Change the step pauses until it sounds like it's throwing itself at the lid.
A heavier weight or a longer crank arm rocks it harder. The bumpers set how far it tips: lower them for more rock, but keep the end bolts in so it can't come off the board.
A dim red glow through the gap even at rest makes guests uneasy before it ever moves.
DO NOT OPEN, LIVE SPECIMEN, THIS SIDE UP and a fake shipping label. Chains and a padlock across the top help too.
Upload snarling, banging and splintering wood as the scare sound, and slow breathing as the ambient loop.
Claw marks around the lid edge and a few fake splinters sell the idea it's been trying to get out.
Put it at a corner where guests walk right past it, with a rope keeping them back.
Safety: the lid slams and the crate rocks. Keep guests behind a rope at least 3 ft away, keep the stop blocks and chains in place so the lid never closes on the rim, box in the shaker weight, keep the rocker end bolts in, and bleed the air before working inside. Weatherproofing guide →
A six foot witch stands over a bubbling green cauldron, slowly stirring with a long wooden paddle. She never stops, all night long. Then someone gets too close: fog pours over the rim, the potion flares, her eyes burn red and she stirs like mad, cackling, before settling back to her slow, patient stir.
The witch is a 2x2 post on a plywood base, with a shoulder bar at 52" and a foam head on a pivot at the top of the post, dressed in a robe and hat. A small gearmotor and pushrod turn her head slowly from side to side, as if she's keeping watch. Her arms are light PVC with loose bolts at the shoulders and elbows, and her hands clamp a loose collar on the paddle. Nothing in the arms is driven.
The work happens inside the cauldron. A wiper motor sits on a riser block bolted to the cauldron floor, shaft up, and a 12" hub plate of 1/2" plywood is bolted to its crank 2" below the rim. A 16" cover disk of 1/8" plywood is screwed on top as the potion's surface, and both turn together. The paddle stands upright in a pipe flange bolted through the cover into the hub, 4" off center, so as the disk turns the whole paddle travels around an 8" circle, carrying her hands with it. The paddle also turns on its own axis once per lap, which is why the hands hold it in a loose collar.
The motor runs all the time. An automotive relay feeds its low-speed lead when R1 is off and its high-speed lead when R1 is on, so she stirs slowly at rest and frantically for the scare. The head motor works the same way on R5: it runs while R5 is off, and when R5 turns on a cam switch stops it with her face toward the guests, so she stops looking around and stares at them. A green LED strip on the cauldron wall under the disk glows through the 2" gap around it, a flicker flood on R2 makes the potion flare, and fog piped under the disk spills over the rim.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Frame | 2x2 post on a 48" × 30" base of 3/4" plywood, with a 16" shoulder bar at 52" and two braces | Sandbag the back of the base |
| Head and hat | Foam head with a witch mask or sculpted face, wig and hat | Brings her to about 72" at the hat tip |
| Head turn | 1/2" bolt neck in a flange bearing on the post, 12V gearmotor about 6 RPM with a 1" crank and pushrod to a 2" lever | She looks about 30° each way. On R5's NC, with a cam switch |
| Arms | 3/4" PVC, 13" upper arm and 13" forearm, loose bolts at the shoulder and elbow | Light, so they just follow the paddle |
| Hands | Foam or latex hands clamped to a loose collar on the paddle | The paddle turns inside the collar |
| Cauldron | Plastic cauldron about 20" across on a stand, rim 24" up | Holes in the bottom for the riser bolts and wires |
| Hub plate | 1/2" plywood, 12" across, bolted to the wiper crank 2" below the rim | Carries the paddle, so it needs the thickness |
| Cover disk | 1/8" plywood, 16" across, screwed to the top of the hub | The potion surface. Paint it black, leave a 2" gap to the wall |
| Paddle | 1" dowel, 26" long, in a 1" pipe flange through-bolted to the hub 4" off center | Stands upright and rides around with the disk |
| Stir motor | 12V wiper motor on a 2x6 riser block inside the cauldron, and an automotive relay | Low speed at rest, high on R1 |
| Lights | 12V green LED strip, 12V green flicker flood, two red LED eyes | Strip on 12V, flood on R2, eyes on R4 |
| Fog (optional) | Fog machine with a remote button, hose under the disk | R3 closes the remote button |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 10A or more | The wiper needs the current, more on high speed |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
The stir motor runs all the time. 30 on the automotive relay gets 12V, 87a goes to the wiper's low-speed lead and 87 to its high-speed lead. With R1 off, the relay rests on 87a and she stirs slowly. R1 switches the relay coil, and she stirs fast.
No park switch is needed, because the motor never stops while the prop is on. Fuse the 12V feed to the relay.
R2 switches the flicker flood under the disk. The green strip runs straight off the 12V supply, so the potion always glows.
R3 is a dry contact across the fog machine's remote button, with no 12V on it. R4 switches the red eye LEDs in the head, with a resistor each.
The head motor runs off R5's NC terminal, so she looks around at rest. The cam's microswitch is wired from 12V to the motor too, in parallel with R5. When R5 turns on, the motor keeps going only until the cam opens the switch with her face to the front, then it stops: she turns and stares.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the cackle as the scare sound and bubbling as the ambient loop, and hide the speaker in the stand.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
Low speed on a wiper is usually right for an idle stir. If it's too fast, use a 12V PWM speed control on the low lead.
Move the flange further out. The hands circle twice the flange's distance from the center, so 4½" out gives a 9" stir. Keep the flange fully on the 12" hub.
A slow look is creepier than a fast one. Keep it under 10 RPM and about 30° each way, so the robe hides the neck.
If the arms jerk, loosen the elbow bolts and add a little weight to the hands so they hang into the motion.
Upload a cackle and an incantation as the scare sound, and slow bubbling as the ambient loop.
A long nose, deep eye sockets and a few warts. Seen from below in green light, she should look ancient.
Layers of torn cheesecloth over a dark robe hide the post and move a little as she stirs.
Jars, bones, a spell book and a broom around the base. Guests should see the whole kitchen before they see her eyes.
Safety: the paddle and arms move all the time. Keep guests behind a rope at least 3 ft away, keep a 2" gap between the turning disk and the cauldron wall so nothing can be pinched, sandbag the base so she can't tip, and unplug the 12V supply before working in the cauldron, because the disk can start without warning. Weatherproofing guide →
An old man in a dusty suit sits slumped in a parlor armchair, so still that guests take him for a dummy. Then his eyes open red, he slowly stands and leans toward them, and just when he's on his feet his neck stretches up and his head rises high above them under a strobe, before he sinks back down into the chair.
The figure's shins and shoes are fixed to a plywood base in front of the chair. At the top of the shins is a knee bracket, and the thighs, two strips of 1/2" plywood, pivot on it. Sitting, the thighs lie flat on the cut-open seat. Standing, they point straight up and his hips are 18" further forward and 18" higher.
The torso is a 2x2 and plywood frame hinged to the top of the thighs. A second pair of links runs from a point on the knee bracket, 6" up and forward of the knee, to the torso. The links and thighs form a parallelogram, so the torso stays upright the whole way, the way a person's does when they stand.
A 1 1/2" cylinder under the seat pushes the thighs up from 6" in front of the knee, and a flow control makes him rise slowly. Inside the torso a 1" cylinder pushes a rod up through the collar into the head, so his neck stretches 8" in a fraction of a second. A spandex sleeve over the rod makes it look like skin.
| Part | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Base and chair | 3/4" plywood base, 48" × 36", and a sturdy wooden armchair bolted to it | Cut out the seat panel so the thighs can swing up |
| Legs | Shins made from 2x4 or PVC in trousers, with shoes screwed to the base | Fixed. Only the thighs move |
| Knee bracket | 1/4" × 1" steel flat bar on top of the shins, with a 3/8" pivot bolt, and a second hole 6" up and forward | Carries the thighs and the links |
| Thighs | Two 18" strips of 1/2" plywood, padded and covered by the trousers | Pivot on the knee bracket |
| Links | Two 18" steel flat bars from the bracket to the torso | Parallel to the thighs. Keeps him upright |
| Torso | 2x2 spine with 1/2" plywood shoulder and hip plates, 24" tall, dressed in a suit | Light: under 20 lb in total |
| Stand cylinder | Double-acting, 1 1/2" bore, 8" stroke, clevis at both ends | Under the seat, to the thighs 6" from the knee |
| Neck | Double-acting, 1" bore, 8" stroke, inside the torso, with a spandex neck sleeve | Pushes the head up 8" |
| Valves | Two 12V 5/2 valves, a flow control on each, mufflers | R1 stand, R2 neck |
| Air supply | Tank or compressor, regulator with gauge, 1/4" tubing and fittings | About 70 psi |
| Lights | Two red LED eyes, 12V LED strobe | Eyes on R3, strobe on R4 |
| Sound | 4–8 Ω speaker, up to 3 W, on the controller's SPK terminals | Plays the scare sound and ambient loop you upload on the controller's Sound page. No sound player needed |
| Power | 12V DC supply, 2A or more | Runs the valves and lights |
Everything electrical for this prop, matched to work together, so you can wire it straight from the hook-up section below. The build materials come from any hardware store.
All dimensions in inches. Download the printable blueprint (PDF, 11 × 17) to take to the workshop.
Each valve coil draws well under 1A, so both run straight off their relays: 12V into COM, NO to the coil, the other coil lead to ground, with a diode across each coil.
R3 switches the two red eye LEDs in the head, with a resistor each. R4 switches a 12V LED strobe above the chair.
Run the tubing and the eye wires up the back of the torso with plenty of slack, because the whole body moves 18" forward.
Sound comes from the controller itself. Upload the scare sound and ambient loop on its Sound page and hide the speaker under the chair.
Leave Relay wiring as it is for your board.
"Pause after" is the time from when a row starts until the next row starts, so 0 starts two rows together. More on reading the program →
A slow stand is the scary part. Close the stand flow control until it takes a full second or more to get up.
Leave the neck fast. The contrast between the slow stand and the sudden neck is what makes guests jump.
Slow the return too, so he settles back into the chair instead of dropping.
Keep the torso and head light. Every pound up there makes the stand slower and harder on the pivots.
Upload a creaking chair, a long breath and a scream as the scare sound, and a slow clock tick as the ambient loop.
An old suit, white gloves, a gray face with sunken eyes. He should look like a dummy until he moves.
A parlor corner with a lamp, a side table and a doily on the chair back. Put real dummies around the room too.
Face him toward where guests stop to look at something else, so he rises in the corner of their eye.
Safety: the figure comes 18" forward and rises to nearly 7 ft. Keep guests behind a rope at least 4 ft from the chair, keep hands out of the knee pivot and the cylinder under the seat, slow both returns, and bleed the air before working on it. Weatherproofing guide →